Next Steakout

5 Sept 2017

La Boucherie on 71


#48 The Royce - Pasadena


Rating: 4.00 cows


Pasadena’s Langham Hotel is a swanky joint which deserves its own swanky restaurant. The hotel’s signature eatery is The Royce, once specializing in New American fare, the space now features an excellent selection of steaks, sides, appetizers and desserts. The latest incarnation led by chef Dominique Shelton opened in 2013.

We started at The Tap Room, the bar across the way from The Royce inside the Langham. They make a pretty good, if expensive ($16) old fashioned and offer a nice assortment of complimentary bar snacks featuring wasabi peas, spiced candied nuts, and mini toasts.

The dining room at The Royce is bright and light with deep blue accents throughout. It’s not a large dining area, and the atmosphere is calm and quiet but not uncomfortably so.

The steak selection at The Royce is lengthy. With over 10 different options from different farms including Australian and authentic Japanese Wagyu, it was an uncommonly tough decision of what to order. We decided to start things off with an appetizer of steak. The Japanese Wagyu clocks in at $30/oz, and us not wearing gold-lined pants decided a small sample would suffice. We split a 4oz tenderloin which was, as you’d expect, brimming with flavor, succulent and juicy, and just incredible. If only we’d been able to order more. 

We also tried the caesar salad and lobster bisque, which were both adequate but not great. The caesar dressing tasted a bit too much like mayonnaise, which is not a flavor profile best accentuated in that context. The anchovies helped round out the flavor, but they appeared to be offered solely as a garnish and not worked into the dressing itself. The lobster bisque was good, but failed to stand out.

For our main courses we split our orders among 6 different cuts. Two rib eyes (one bone-in, one boneless), two strips (one Australian Wagyu, one domestic), and two filets (from different farms). The stars of the night were the filets, both were spectacular and the wood-fired flavor was very noticeable but not overpowering.  The filets were thick and cooked exactly as they should be (rare plus is the new medium rare). The New York strips were also quite tasty, though the thinner cut zapped the flavor ever so slightly. The rib eyes were also very well prepared, both cooked to perfection. The robust smoky aroma seemed a little less prevalent on these but they were both very good steaks. After trying a cross-section of 7 different steaks we feel confident that there are subtle differences between them, but probably not quite enough to justify the higher-end cuts unless you spring for the Japanese Wagyu. All of the steaks here are good, so get the cut you like best and you will be satisfied.

And not just satisfied with cow meat, we also created a DIY surf-and-turf by ordering a crab cake. It was perfectly acceptable, but in our opinion not up to the level of quality of the meat. 

To accompany our meat, we ordered a slew of side dishes. The standout was the brussels sprouts, which were absolutely fantastic, probably the best vegetable side we’ve had yet at any of the steakhouses we’ve been to. Truly extraordinary. Every steakhouse needs to have truffles on the menu somewhere, and The Royce is no exception with its truffled spinach. Surprisingly tasty and not overly powerful, this was another favorite. The creamed corn and mac & cheese got mixed reviews, the corn because of the unusual spices and the mac and cheese because the noodles tasted boiled rather than baked. Last but not least: the french fries. Against our expectations, these hand-cut beauties are actually quite good. While it still feels wrong to pay $8 for them, we have to admit they were one of the better steakhouse french fries we’ve tried so far.

To round out the night, we finished with an order of beignets. These were excellent: a large fluffy inside surrounded by a crisp outer shell, doused in cinnamon and sugar. The chocolate dipping sauce was a perfect accompaniment to this delicious dessert.

The Royce is a great place to get yourself a delicious steak. The service was good, and the selections here are very extensive across a range of price points from about $46-74, which is certainly on the higher end of things, but not outrageously so. We would definitely recommend giving this place a visit. Overall we really enjoyed our food, the atmosphere, and you probably will too. 

The Royce Photos


#47 Trabuco Oaks Steakhouse - Trabuco Canyon

Rating: 3.50 cows


We don’t typically frequent a steakhouse just because of a gimmick, but this one had tickled our interest for some time, and the timing was finally right to give it a try. Trabuco Canyon is not an area known for steak, in fact it’s not really known for much of anything other than being in the middle of almost nowhere. As you might guess from the name, “rustic” is a good word to describe the place. Lots of wood and canteen lights, friendly staff and not a hint of pretense. You might say it’s a casual place. In fact that might be selling the place short. They don’t want no city folk riding up in their suits and ties, so if they see you wearing a tie, they’ll cut that sucker right off. They even did it to Richard Nixon (he’s the only president whose picture can be found inside).

The bar is small, but the drinks were better than we expected. Honestly that’s not saying terribly much, but the standard drinks used quality alcohols (Tito’s) in lieu of low-quality wells. The Bourbon Sangria was just what you might guess—sangria with bourbon—but was surprisingly good, though it could have used a touch more bourbon. The Mule and Old Fashioned weren’t showstoppers, but adequate. This is not a sophisticated cocktailery, so keep your orders simple and you’ll do better. The bar service was slow, but with just a single bartender doing her very best, our party of 8 was probably the reason.

Inside the diminutive dining room hang the vestiges of neckties long since shorn. They adorn the walls and dangle from the ceiling like strange trophies. The dining room is also very dark. It almost felt like we were dining in a cave. 

Most of us who were drinking opted for beer as opposed to wine. They did serve wine, but you couldn’t really call it a wine menu. The tap selection was slim but there were good quality brews to be had.

This also marked the first time we had jalapeño poppers and onion rings as an appetizer, but it just seemed like the right thing to do here. Two orders were perfect for our group of 8, and while certainly not why we went there, they were quite tasty all the same.

Steaks at Trabuco Oaks come with sides (salad, potato, and beans). They also serve garlic toast with each meal. Prices are slightly on the high end for a place that comes with sides, but the value here is still quite good. There’s only one salad here, and it’s unremarkable and overdressed. The french fries were actually pretty good, and the baked potato was fine, but small. The garlic toast left much to be desired. It was certainly toast, but it lacked a good garlic (or butter) flavor which left us wishing for offerings from North Woods Inn or The Dal Rae. The western beans (served in a large silver pail) were fine, but not quite our cup of tea.

And then there’s the meat. We didn’t know quite what to expect here, and we were all pleasantly surprised. We ordered the small filet, the ribeye, and the NY. Their steaks are mesquite grilled, and this flavor is very evident as you sink your teeth in. The steaks were seasoned reasonably well (some better than others) and they did a great job of cooking to our order (rare +). The quality of the meat was what you’d expect at this more moderately-priced steakhouse, which is to say mediocre, but there was a surprising amount of flavor, helped in no small part by that mesquite grill.

The desserts were also squarely in the “good” category. The sundae was too heavy on the whipped cream and light on the ice cream. Same with the Apple Gizmo, though the ‘gizmo’ part was quite good (apple pie filling wrapped in a tortilla and deep fried). The mud pie looked good but the flavor fell flat unfortunately.

Trabuco Oaks is a tough place to judge. We had a great time, and the people were wonderful. The no tie rule is a fun gimmick and they wear it with good-natured pride. While you’re not going to get the best steak of your life, you’re also not going to pay that much for a hearty meal and a savory slab of meat that’s better than most places at this price. Expectations are probably key to your enjoyment (or lack thereof) here, so if you adjust yours accordingly you’ll walk out with a full and satisfied stomach, and definitely without a tie.

Trabuco Oaks Photos


#46 Ocean Prime - Beverly Hills

Rating: 3.50 cows


Located in Beverly Hills, Ocean Prime neighbors with some stiff competition. Both CUT and Mastro’s are but a stone’s throw away, and both sit at the top of our ratings thus far in our journey.

Operated by Cameron Mitchell, Ocean Prime is part of the rejuvenated eponymous restaurant group with origins in Columbus, Ohio. The bar is divided into two sections which straddle a walkway to the underground parking structure. We started there and partook of the happy hour offerings, which were good despite not including their Old Fashioned. 

The dining room is dark and sleek, packed with business types entertaining clients or their wives or girlfriends. We were seated promptly and well attended to by our waiter.

We started with our usual wedge and caesar salads which were solid across the board. Some places try to fancy things up but we’ve found the best success when they don’t try to do too much. Ocean Prime does well in this regard. The same can be said for the side dishes which all tasted good. We ordered the standard french fries, corn, and truffle mac & cheese. It’s weird to think of truffle mac & cheese as being a standard, but it certainly feels like that nowadays. Once again, we were underwhelmed with the fries.

On to the meat. Ocean Prime’s cuts are generous and this is a place that knows how to cook a slab of meat. We ordered the Rib Eye, Filet, and the NY Strip and they all tasted good. The rare-plus filet was especially decadent and bursting with flavor with a crisp light char on the outside. Our biggest complaint was that while the steaks were certainly above average, they didn’t quite live up to the prices compared to other places we’ve been. That’s unfortunate, but as we’ve mentioned there is some seriously stiff competition just down the road.

The dessert offerings were good, and also featured standard selections (cheesecake, compote, ice cream). We tried a few and they were good, but nothing outstanding.

Overall we felt that Ocean Prime is a nice place to get a very good steak. It’s better than your average steakhouse, but given the location we find it hard to recommend this place over its outstanding neighbors. Still, if you find yourself here you’ll likely enjoy a good meal even if the price is a bit high.

Ocean Prime Photos


#45 Colombo's - Eagle Rock

Rating: 2.50 cows


Colombo’s has been a staple of Eagle Rock since 1954. Imbued with the sort of old-world charm that you might expect of an Italian restaurant, it sits comfortably between that checkered tablecloth chianti bottle kitch and the white tablecloth elegance.

There’s live music just about every evening, and the place is small enough that it feels cozy without feeling cramped. The bar runs along one side and is mostly cordoned off from the rest of the seating area.

We had a large group and took up a good portion of the main dining room at a long table down the center between the naugahyde booths. The service was interesting to say the least. After taking our orders, they neglected to take our menus. Stranger, they left without taking our dinner orders and only took orders for our salads and appetizers. When the food came out, they still didn’t take our menus and we had no place to put them while we ate our salads. After clearing our salad plates, they finally took our dinner orders and also took away the menus. We’re still baffled by it all.

The steaks were all cooked more or less as we requested, but it was hard to really get excited about  any of them. The cuts were adequately sized, but as we’ve come to find from many of these older places, they just didn’t have the flavor we would have hoped. The steaks come with sides, so your baked potatoes and greens are included with your meat.

The dessert selection was good, and they were tasty, but it wasn’t enough to overcome the mediocrity of the steaks and service. It’s a fine place to go for the nostalgia or the kitsch, but don’t make this a destination for the steak.

Colombo's Photos


#44 The Arthur J - Manhattan Beach

Rating: 4.75 cows


Manhattan Beach is known for many things, most notably its pier and relentless beach culture. We’re not saying these are incompatible with great steak, but it’s certainly not the first thing that comes to mind. There are some classic steakhouses dotting the beach cities of Southern California, most of which cater to the beach bum or tourist crowd, but which don’t really take their steak seriously. The Arthur J is not one of those places.

Set amongst the posh retail district and restrictive parking meters—other things Manhattan Beach is known for—on Manhattan Avenue, The Arthur J carries the name of the man who spent much of his time in this part of town and founded local favorite The Kettle. His children run the business now, and have tapped Devid LeFevre to run the steakhouse kitchen.

As you enter the small space, the bar is immediately in front of you, with two large TVs behind the bar that seem even bigger given the diminutive space. Their glow evokes a slightly more casual vibe than we were expecting, but it was a little reminder that, yes, we’re still in a beach town.

The cocktail menu features house twists on classics, though we found the Brannigan’s Boots—their version of the Old Fashioned—to be hit or miss.

The dining room is about the same size as the bar, but with more seating. The service arrived quickly and attentively. It was a taste of things to come. While working through the wine list to make sure we got the right bottle, the waiter deferred to the sommelier when our initial choice was unavailable.

Let’s get on to the food. We started things off with the caesar salad, mushroom soup, and bison & pork chili. All three were fantastic. The caesar was exceptionally fresh and they get extra points for what tasted like a homemade dressing and real anchovies. It’s not often that a caesar salad stands out, but this one did. The only drawback was the price, which for $14 was perhaps the most expensive caesar we’ve had thus far. 

The steak menu is more than adequate, featuring Angus and USDA Prime cuts, as well as a tomahawk and porterhouse for two, and of course a Wagyu option (Kagoshima prefecture). All the stars are here, and we partook of the filet, strip, and rib eye, all cooked “rare plus”. For the side dishes we went with the mashers, brussels sprouts, mac and cheese, and of course the fries.

Steak is the reason we came, and the steaks definitely stole the show. They had fantastic charring all over, and the flavor was absolutely outstanding. All of us were impressed with the tenderness, and expert cooking. Each steak comes with a sauce of your choice, but we all felt they were really just novel distractions. We’ve said this before, but a great steak needs no sauce. None of the steaks we ate were enhanced by the sauces. 

The only blemish on the steak came with the rib eye. It arrived decidedly overcooked, and while it was still tasty, it wasn’t living up to its potential. We commented to the waiter, and he insisted on a replacement, and even let us keep the first steak while the other was cooked up. It arrived quickly and was every bit as delicious as the others—and that’s saying a lot.

The side dishes were also very good. Of particular note were the mashed potatoes, so drowned in butter that you could barely eat more than a few bites. We shared one order amongst the 4 of us and only just managed to finish it. The brussels sprouts were quite good too, and while the mac and cheese was good, it was the least interesting. What about the fries, you ask?

We have a bit of a history with steakhouse fries. They’re on just about every menu, and they are always a disappointment. Always. Every time. But we order them anyway. And so the fantasy of paying $8-10 for sticks of fried potatoes that we actually want to order again remains as elusive as ever. Until now. Ladies and gentlemen, these ARE the fries we’re looking for. Cooked in beef fat and dusted with malt vinegar, these steak fries are flat out delicious. They have a perfect ratio of surface area to volume, with a deep salty flavor courtesy of the beef fat. Oh yes. We finally found steakhouse french fry nirvana!

We weren’t all that hungry for dessert, so the plan was to split the apple tart, but we were surprised with a trio of ice cream and sorbet as compensation for our wayward rib eye. The salted caramel and mango sorbet were delectable, while the chocolate sorbet was a little less so. Maybe there’s a reason that sorbet is typically reserved for fruit (it was still pretty good).

All told, this was a fantastic experience and none of us would hesitate to come back if the opportunity arose. The food was incredible and the service was great. As for the value, you’re definitely not dining here if you’re on a strict budget, however their prices ($45-55 as of this writing) are comparable to most, and we enjoyed our food here more than most. Do your stomach a favor and get yourself over to The Arthur J.

Arthur J Photos